Articles from the Newsletter November/December 2007

My trans-Siberian experience by Keith Wawman

Starting with a flight to St. Petersburg, a city of canals, I spent three days and nights looking at most places of interest - a boat trip on the canal, almost a day looking round tile The Heritage Collection (well worth the visit) and the church where Alexander the Second was assassinated was most colourful, as were all the churches I saw and visited  (got "churched out" by the end of my tour!). It was the month of  White Nights, dark past midnight. I was most impressed with the wide roads and the speed of the traffic, and I noticed that all the rain water pipes were 9” in diameter which enabled the melting snow to clear. I was glad it was 30ºC, not -24ºC winter. Now my train travel started - overnight to Moscow arriving at 5am, where my guide and taxi were waiting, this was to be the same on all my listed stops - with my own guide for three hours each time, with the exception of special tours. As you would expect I crammed as much as I could into my three days. I visited the Kremlin, saw the largest bell ever made, Red Square and Lenin's Mausoleum, the Church in the Square, which was used as a carpet store until a short time ago, and now restored as a museum. I was surprised to run into Lenin and Boris Yeltsin, and even saw Rasputin, look-alikes, Russian tourists taking pictures, rides on the underground, having tea with a most interesting Russian family, and finding lots of gardens well laid out and full of colour. One of my best memories was a look round Moscow's oldest shop very like Harrods and every bit as ornate. On to Eketerinburg on an overnight sleeper. My companion was a Russian customs officer - I did wonder if the vodka we drank that night had been confiscated. He was very interesting, and when his English wavered a bit he made mobile calls to his wife for reference and chat. He bought a crystal bell as a souvenir of our meeting. Eketerinburg - a 3 hour time change - making several on this train. This city has only been open to tourists since 1990 because of the many defence plants in this area. Gary Powers was shot down here in 1960. Parts of his U2 spy. plane are in the town's museum that I visited. Next day a trip to the Urals border of Europe and Asia by car with a guide, then to visit the woods where the bodies of Tsar Nicholas the Second and his family, the Romanoffs, were found about 1991 (they were executed in 1918). The Russian Orthodox Church has now built six commemorative churches, in these woods ... one for each family member. The mayor of this town, before moving on, was Boris Yeltsin. The road and town signs are in Russian but mostly in Cyrillic (I was pleased to have a map in English with me.) The next stage was the train to Irkutsk which took three days, making some stops for locals to board. I was able to get off the train to stretch my legs and to get cold drinks and fresh fruit from the platform sellers. Evenings were spent with a group from France and their Russin interpreter who entertained us after they took over the dining car. There were not a lot of Brits travelling by train but several Australians and New Zealanders, a few Germans, and lots of Russians. I was now in Siberia. As usual my carriage and guide were waiting to take me off to a family stay at Listvyanka village on the shore of Lake Bakal. The lake is over a mile in depth and the largest lake with fresh water. At several meal times we had fresh fish caught that day. I met up with several Brits on a different tour to mine. Side-stepped the walk for softies, found to be very hard. Softies meant soft ground walking - so much for the translation! Found lots of items of interest. Then a visit by local bus to Talsy Museum of Wooden Architecture to see a collection of Siberian buildings renovated in a woodland setting., I met one of our carriage guards walking round with her daughter and family. Next day a trip by hovercraft to the next village. The best sunset yet - across the lake! After dinner had a good walk by the lake followed with a "whoop-it-up eveninj in a local pub - some of my travelling friends went for a swim in the very cold lake (not me!). Transferred next morning to Irkutsk town with Tristan and Di. We looked round the area where the Decembrists settled in exile, living in traditional wooden carved houses. The town used to be the jumping-off point for Alaska. It was also the home of several explorers of note. Later that evening we boarded the train for Ulanuday, overnight travel. No problem for me provided I had the bottom bunk. I was still travelling with Tristan and his friend Di, stopping for two nights with a family in their home. The next guided trip for the three of us was almost to the border of Mongolia to see a monastery (what another?). Lunch was made by a family in a small village ten miles off-road where I was ablt to show off my cooking skills, making filled dumplings. On these two days we had two sisters, one driving the other the guide. They were very interesting and informative on all subjects and had a good command of English. After stopping for pics of a lake we went off-road again and saw by chance two folk dance groups, Siberian and Mongol, in their traditional dress, who were meeting up. They treated us to some dancing as it was a chance meeting. Ulanuday is only just the other side of Lake Baikal - it could have been possible to cross the lake, only it would have taken approximately two hours, so we took an overnight train instead. We had the first rain on this trip - but it was still hot! The next day we took a 4 o'clock moming train to Ulanbataar with a midnight stop at the Siberian border - nine hours , then a further three hours for the Russian and Mongolian Customs - everyone off the train, toilets locked, and no cafe or waiting rooms open. We just never found out why the long stop. I think most of us sneaked back on the train and went to sleep after the customs check. Then we arrived in Ulanbataar in Mongolia - a country with no fences, few trees or hedges, lots of desert hills and mountains - where 1 met my car and guide Anna for the next six days. A hotel had been arranged for me to shower and have a late breakfast before setting out on the eight-hour drive - mostly on tracks off road. My stop for four nights was at a nomad Ger Camp with herdsmen living in Gers (camel felt framed tents). No electricity or running water - at the edge of a desert. Also stopping with me were a British couple and an Australian. In the morning a four-wheeled drive across the Gobi Desert (and the Mongolian family came too - perhaps they thought I might not be good at pushing if we got stuck?). This took most of the day and we didn't see anyone else. In the evening we saw a wild horse being broken in, goats milked (I wasn't good at this), a mare being milked and some curds being made for the family (both tasted horrible to me). Very comfortable in my ger by myself. Then another monastery coming up - a drive of four hours each way off-road with most places having a connection with Genghis Khan (I was told it was Chiggis Haan), saw a double rainbow this evening followed by a storm overnight (no leaks in the tent). Travelling back the driver had to change tracks due to the flood water the previous night. The stream made it very difficult for our four-wheeled drive. Then two nights at Estell Tourist ger campto jom up with several tours. What a difference! Although every one was sleeping in tents ALL the usual facilities were laid on. A lot of people I talked to would not have liked my previous stay (wimps). Again 1 had to try something different - a ride on a Mongolian horse for four hours - all kitted out and instructed. halfway on the ride we took a short stop - what do you think - my horse ran away and the leader had to chase after him to get him back. I think I would still be walking now, decided not to test myself with the arm wrestling. In the evening after a grand meal a young girl acrobat gave an exhibition of yoga - and very good it was too. Followed by a programme of throat singing (I wasn't going to try this). the range they could cover was fantastic, alternating with the playing of traditional musical instruments, everyone in traditional dress. Now a change of travel. My first coach and with a tour group to the city of Ulaanbataar to stay in my upgraded 5-star hotel, the only one around. I think I deserved it! Looking round the following day we visited the museum and found out that more dinosaur bones had been found in Mongolia than any other country in the world. Found out more on the life of Ghengis Khan as well. Now off to Beijing overnight - stopping at both frontiers' customs and changing wheel bogeys (different gauge tracks) taking eight hours. There was a bit of entertainment when the Chinese guards marched along the platform accompanied by the tune of The Can Can (we all laughed, I don't know why). Early hours next morning I saw a couple of sections of the Great Wall from the train window. It was a change looking out of the window now as there was more industry and housing to see. On arrival had difficulty in getting out of the railway station and finding a taxi. Stopping one night only in Beijing as 1 had visited it before in 1991 - lots more cars now, but still lots of people around cycling. Made a quick visit to the forbidden city and a long walk round the back streets. Now winding down, my last overnight on a train, stopped in Shanghai. Now on my own steam - found a Holiday Inn downtown - able to get my last treat, I've never seen so many skyscrapers! Just did a couple of local tours and a tour of the river to see the lights which were fantastic. This evening, on seeing the weather forecast I thought it was time to go home. Walked round to the local travel agents (now 7pm) and found a flight departing 10 am next morning for Heathrow. Not quite finished - went on to see the best acrobatic show I have ever seen. Now HOME!