Articles from the Newsletter

March/April 2007

Ecuador, the Andes and the Galapagos Islands by President Keith Wawman

Sad to say this tour was non-cycling - but I don't think I could get up to 4,300m now, and anyway would not be allowed to cycle on the Galapagos Islands - because of the conservation issue. It was a 14 day tour which involved rising most mornings at 5 o'clock and lots of moving on (except the first two nights). 1 started the tour in Quito, 2,850m - some 23 miles south of the equator. The first two nights at the Hilton (way above the standard set when cycling). Our group of nine spent the day getting acclimatised to the altitude. We looked round the Old Town of Quito with its cobbled streets and a visit to the local sites with our tour manager Eduardo, who was to be with us all the tour. We soon found he was most informative on all the places visited as well as the wild life, plants and shrubs that we were later to see - making it most interesting. After looking at the equator museum and stepping both sides of the line went on to see some private gardens at Pakakuna. Most interesting as Ecuador has no seasons of the year - resulting in the fruit trees growing at all the four seasons, as were the plants. Then we visited some greenhouses to see the very long stemmed roses - exported to all parts of the globe. Now on the move - wonderful views of the many extinct volcanoes from the small coach, and able to make lots of stops when we wanted. As Equador is not yet commercialised we were not subjected to the usual sellers found in package tours. On several days we saw condors and eagles in flight and always lots of different wild flowere by the roadside and fields (all named by Eduardo). We stopped at a small hotel at Papallanca hot springs, overlooked by extinct volcanoes. After an early morning nature walk in the hills, on marked tracks, before breakfast, we all had to try out the six thermal spring pools - nice and warm, followed by a mud bath and massage - wow! felt invigorated after this. We visited the village of Pintang. Views of snow capped Antisana 5,758m seen from the private reserve visited, where they have about 450 different types of birds. We travelled on several unmade roads into the Private Antisana Reserve - 12,000 hectares past the lava flows of the extinct volcano that last erupted in 1801/2, stopped several times for the different birds - Carracaras, Lapwiligs, Condors, Humming Birds I think there were 23 types seen, identified in Eduardo's large book on South American birds. Lunch on different days in family-run old ranches (so much to see, so much to do) - Note: all the meals were good wherever we stopped - bit too much at times! We visited one large Sunday market, not for the tourists, selling materials, embroidered blouses, bags and blankets along with the usual flowers and veg. I did notice on Sundays all the females wore these nice blouses. Note! on Sunday (only) the centre section of road was coned off for the use of cyclists in Quito for several miles around. Back to Quito, up early as usual, then a two hour flight to Galapagos Island of Baltra. By tender boat to embark on the Mv Galapagos Legend for four nights. We found lots of references to Darwin on this part of the tour. We visited six of the islands in total. Landings were wet or dry, got used to this by the time we left. We had to be quite agile which I am not now. Walks mostly on uneven volcanic rock - I was given a walking stick as the least young in the group The walks were not crowded (20 in a group), strictly controlled and marshalled by an accompaning naturalist guide and our Eduardo. On the islands, which were a wonder, I saw Flamingoes, Pintail Ducks, Sea Turtles, Crabs, Giant tortoises, Marine and Land Iguanas, Red-billed tropical birds, Blue footed and masked boobes, and the frigate bird - and lots more! Some birds were in the mating season and were building nests. All very close to the paths, as were the wild plants. On returning from each island our shoes were hosed down to save contamination from each island. Each evening before dinner a briefing and slide show was given on the next day's activities. After dinner we were entertained byThe seals chasing flying fish. I haven't mentioned the weather in the Andes it was 75 - 80 but on the islands it was 90 plus at 11 o'clock in the morning and there was no shade on the islands - nowhere to sit down so had to keep walking. We flew back to Quito on the last night, then home next day. A fantastic tour and in good company. I was pleased I had a hat and factor 40!!! No sunbathing, too hot. I thought at first this tour was expensive with the single supplement, but I only had to pay £100 more on extras, so on second thoughts it was good. Th e meals all had lots of choice, but sometimes too big!